Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
